Thank you so much for watching this video! If you would like to suggest a video idea please leave it in the comments, and if you enjoyed please like and subscribe! It was my pleasure to add a bit of science to your day!
Recently I went to Cacao Beach to surf, and and did a bit of research about the physics behind it. I found it so interesting I decided to make a video about it!
Basically Waves break when the top layer surpasses the bottom (this occurs as the seafloor gradually gets shallower). This is when the waves release most of their energy. A surfer will have to paddle to go at the same momentum as the wave. Once they get up they will have to balance (the center of gravity is towards the back of the board). And from their they can enjoy the ride!