The Science Of Surfing

posted in: The Science Behind, Videos | 0

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Recently I went to Cacao Beach to surf, and and did a bit of research about the physics behind it. I found it so interesting I decided to make a video about it!

Basically Waves break when the top layer surpasses the bottom (this occurs as the seafloor gradually gets shallower). This is when the waves release most of their energy. A surfer will have to paddle to go at the same momentum as the wave. Once they get up they will have to balance (the center of gravity is towards the back of the board). And from their they can enjoy the ride!

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Chase Wiley is a 14 year-old from Florida who loves science and fishing.